海参水煮液皂苷的美白抗衰老功效研究

Research on Whitening and Antisenility Efficacy of Saponins from Sea Cucumber Cooking Water

摘要:

为开发海参水煮液皂苷在化妆品领域的应用，对海参水煮液进行了醇沉、大孔树脂吸附和乙醇梯度洗脱，获得三种海参皂苷组分S1、S2、S3，采用红外光谱表征了其结构，应用香草醛-冰乙酸法测定了其皂苷含量。通过1,1-二苯基-2-三硝基苯肼（DPPH）分析法和紫外分光光度法测定了皂苷组分水溶液的抗氧化活性和对酪氨酸酶的抑制作用。结果表明，组分S1、S2、S3均含有三萜皂苷类化合物，且质量分数分别为6.09%、34.08%、63.51%；组分S2水溶液清除DPPH自由基的能力较强（质量浓度≥5 g/L时，清除率稳定在92.5%）、抑制酪氨酸酶活性的能力较强（质量浓度为50~70 g/L时，抑制率稳定在30.4%），因而组分S2具有良好的美白抗衰老效果，可作为潜在的美白抗衰老化妆品添加剂。

Abstract:

To develop the application of saponins from sea cucumber cooking water in the field of cosmetics, three saponin fractions S1, S2 and S3 were obtained from sea cucumber cooking water with methods including alcohol precipitation, macroporous resin absorption and ethanol gradient elution, and characterized by Infrared spectra. The contents of total saponins in obtained saponin fractions were determined by vanillin-acetic acid method. 1, 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method was adopted to measure the antioxidant activity of each fraction aqueous solution and ultraviolet spectrophotometric method was applied to determine the tyrosinase inhibitory activity, both of which comprehensively evaluated the whitening and antisenility efficacy of each saponin fraction. The results indicated that the fractions S1, S2 and S3 all contained triterpenoid saponins, mass fractions of which were 6.09%, 34.08% and 63.51% respectively. Among the three fractions, the fraction S2 aqueous solution possessed promising whitening and antisenility efficacy according to the higher DPPH free radical scavenging capacity and inhibitory action on tyrosinase activity. Specifically, when the concentrations were greater than or equal to 5 g/L, the scavenging ratios were kept at 92.5%, and when the concentrations were from 50 to 70 g/L, the inhibitory ratios were stable at 30.4%. Accordingly, this work was the continue efforts for the development of excellent cosmetic additives for skin whitening and antisenility.