多元羧酸与指甲醌染料交联染棉的结构及性能

Structure and properties of crosslinking dyeing cotton with polycarboxylic acid and lawsone dye

摘要:

为了提高天然染料对棉纤维的染色固色性能，以聚马来酸（PMA）和柠檬酸（CA）为交联剂应用于天然染料指甲醌对棉织物的交联染色。采用FTIR、SEM和XRD分析了染色前后棉织物的表面形态及结构，探讨了酯交联对棉织物性能的影响以及多元羧酸复配交联染色机理。结果表明，染色前后棉织物表面差别不大，各纤维间不粘连；直接染色后的棉纤维表面变化不明显，仅有少量染料附着，而交联染色后的棉纤维表面负载较多的染料导致其粗糙度增加，酯化反应主要发生在纤维的非晶态区。与直接染色棉织物相比，交联染色棉织物的染色深度（K/S）和上染率分别提高了88%和38%；染品的绿光、黄光增加，颜色饱和度提高；摩擦色牢度提高了1~2级；耐洗色牢度提高了1~2级；交联染色后棉织物的折皱回复角（WRA）提高了约60%，UPF值达到了50+，具有优异的抗紫外性能。

Abstract:

In order to improve the dyeing and fixing properties of natural dye on cotton fibers, the mixture of polymaleic acid (PMA) and citric acid (CA) was used for crosslinking dyeing on cotton with natural dye lawsone. The structure of cotton fabrics before and after dyeing was analyzed by FTIR、SEM and XRD, the effect of ester crosslinking on the properties of cotton fabrics and the crosslinking dyeing mechanism with polycarboxylic acid were discussed. The results showed that the surface of the cotton fabric before and after dyeing was not much different, and there was no adhesion between the fibers;The surface of the direct dyeing cotton fiber did not change significantly, and only a small amount of the dyes were attached, more dyes were attached to the surface of the crosslinking dyeing cotton fibers resulting in increased roughness, and the esterification reaction mainly occurred in the amorphous region of the fiber after crosslinking dyeing. Compared with those of direct dyeing cotton fabrics, the dyeing depth(K/S) and the dyeing rate of the crosslinking dyeing cotton fabrics were increased by 88% and 38% respectively, the green light, yellow light and color saturation of the dyed product increased. The colour fastness to rubbing increased by about 1~2 levels, the colour fastness to washing increased by about 1~2 levels. The wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) was enhanced by about 60% and had a UPF value of 50+ after crosslinking dyeing, and it had excellent UV resistance.