水相介质中CO2的水合转化效应及皮肤护理应用

Hydration conversion effect of CO2 in aqueous medium and its application in skin care

摘要:

碳酸是一种生物效应分子,在皮肤护理及皮肤疾病干预方面具有重要的应用前景。碳酸的前体分子CO₂在水相介质中的水合转化效应是形成碳酸的关键,然而影响其水合转化的因素尚未得到全面研究。以皮肤护理性化妆品为研究基础,分别讨论了流变调节剂、离子强度、保湿剂、乳化剂在水相环境下对CO₂水合转化效应影响；同时讨论了CO₂极简配方体系的细胞相容性和和人体功效性。结果表明,CO₂水合转化效应随流变调节剂的粘稠度增加而降低；随离子强度增强而降低；多元醇分子极性的增强有利于CO₂的水合转化；乳化剂分子结构变化对水合转化效应有较大影响。此外,CO₂培养基体系对人角质形成细胞呈现优良的细胞相容性,含CO₂的极简配方体系下调了皮肤pH,提升了皮肤水分含量,但增加了经皮水分流失率。该研究为CO₂产品体系的开发提供了研究思路,为CO₂皮肤护理应用提供了理论和应用支撑。

Abstract:

Carbonic acid is a biological effector molecule with broad application prospects in skin care and skin disease intervention. The hydration conversion effect of carbonic acid precursor molecule CO₂ in aqueous medium is the key to the formation of carbonic acid, however, the factors affecting its hydration conversion have not been fully studied. Based on cosmetics, the effects of rheology modifiers, ionic strength, humectants, and emulsifiers on CO₂ hydration conversion in aqueous environment were studied respectively; the cytocompatibility and human efficacy of CO₂ minimalist formula system were discussed. The results show that the hydration conversion effect of CO₂ decreases with the increase of the viscosity of the rheology modifier; it decreases with the increase of the ionic strength; the enhancement of the polarity of the polyol molecule is beneficial to the hydration conversion of CO₂; the change of the molecular structure of the emulsifier affects the hydration conversion effect. In addition, the CO₂ medium system showed excellent cytocompatibility to human keratinocytes, and the minimalist formula system containing CO₂ lowered the skin pH, increased the skin moisture content, but increased the trans epidermal water loss rate. This research provides a research idea for the development of CO₂ products and provides theoretical and application support for CO₂ skin care applications.