黄花菜发酵液的化妆品功效评价

Cosmetic efficacy evaluation of daylily fermentation broth

摘要:

使用植物乳杆菌和酿酒酵母菌发酵制备得两种黄花菜发酵液，通过检测两种发酵液清除DPPH自由基、羟基自由基和总抗氧化能力的数据，可以得到相较于水提液（空白对照），发酵液抗氧化能力更强。在细胞水平上，两种发酵液均表现出对UVB诱导损伤细胞的修复作用，相对于经过UVB照射后的细胞模型组，细胞Ⅰ型胶原蛋白（COL-1）、过氧化氢酶（CAT）活力提高。在酪氨酸酶活力抑制作用实验中，黄花菜发酵液相对于水提液表现出良好的美白作用。通过HaCaT细胞中炎性因子IL-6、TNF-a和COX-2表达量可以看出，样品组中炎性因子的表达量显著低于模型组，可以说明黄花菜发酵液的抗炎性能力大于水提液。通过鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜试验（HET-CAM）可以得出样品作用其前后均无出血现象，黄花菜发酵液无刺激性。最终得到结论：两种黄花菜发酵物可以作为化妆品天然植物原料用于化妆品，对皮肤具有较强的抗氧化、抗炎、美白功能，同时还具有良好的人体安全性。

Abstract:

Lactobacillus plantarum and Saccharomyces cerevisiae were used to prepare two kinds of dayrose fermentation broth. By monitoring the scavenging capacity of DPPH radical, hydroxyl radical and total antioxidant capacity of the two fermentation broth, it was found that the antioxidant capacity of the fermentation broth was stronger than that of the aqueous extract (blank control). At the cellular level, both fermentation broth showed repair effects on UVB-induced injury cells, and compared to the cell model group after UVB irradiation, the activities of collagen type ⅰ (COL-1) and catalase (CAT) were increased. In the experiments of tyrosinase activity inhibition,the daylily fermentation broth showed good whitening effect compared with the water extract. According to the expression levels of inflammatory factors IL-6, TNF-a and COX-2 in HaCaT cells, the expression level of inflammatory factors in the sample group was significantly lower than that in the model group, indicating that the anti-inflammatory ability of daylily fermentation broth was greater than that of water extract. The results of chick chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM) showed that there was no bleeding phenomenon before and after treatment, and the daylily fermentation broth was not irritating. Finally, it was concluded that the two kinds of daylily fermentation can be used as natural plant raw materials for cosmetics, which have strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and whitening functions on the skin, and also have good human safety.