铁皮石斛多糖的提取及在美白保湿护肤品中的应用
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1.浙江理工大学生命科学与医药学院;2.上海特莱维护肤品股份有限公司

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TS201.2

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企业项目(美容护肤系列化妆品研发No: 19040283-J)。


Extraction of polysaccharide from Dendrobium officinale and its application in whitening and moisturizing skin care products
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1.Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,College of Life Sciences and Medicine;2.Shanghai Telaiwei Cosmetics Co,Ltd

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    摘要:

    以新鲜铁皮石斛为原材料,采用超声辅助法,提取铁皮石斛多糖(DOP),并将其作为活性成分制备铁皮石斛美白霜。以铁皮石斛多糖(DOP)得率为评价指标,通过单因素和正交实验优化DOP提取工艺。通过羟基自由基、1,1-二苯-2-苦基肼(DPPH)自由基、2,2"-联氮-双-3-乙基苯并噻唑啉-6-磺酸(ABTS)阳离子自由基清除实验和铁离子还原法(FRAP)法,考察DOP抗氧化活性;通过体外物理分析法检测DOP的保湿能力。基于铁皮石斛美白霜抗氧化、保湿能力检测和酪氨酸酶活性抑制实验,考察DOP质量分数对铁皮石斛美白霜性能的影响。结果表明,DOP最优提取条件为:超声时间60 min,料液比(g∶mL)1∶30,超声次数3次、超声温度80 ℃,最优条件下,DOP得率为34.73%±0.16%;相较质量浓度1.92 g/L的L-抗坏血酸溶液,质量浓度1.92 g/L的DOP溶液的羟基自由基清除率为57.33%±0.03%,低于L-抗坏血酸的98.77%±0.05%;ABTS阳离子自由基清除率为22.16%±1.24%,远低于L-抗坏血酸的98.01%±0.28%;DPPH自由基的清除率为85.45%±0.06%,接近L-抗坏血酸的96.24%±0.04%;FRAP值为2631.31 μmol/L±67.34 μmol/L,接近L-抗坏血酸的2782.83 μmol/L±23.78 μmol/L;在相对湿度85%、43%条件下作用24 h,DOP保湿率分别为96.1%±0.17%和91.6%±0.31%;DOP质量分数1.5%、烟酰胺质量分数2.6%的铁皮石斛美白霜的羟基自由基清除率为25.40%±0.13%,DPPH自由基清除率为85.70%±0.30%,FRAP值为3735.14 μmol/L±148.38 μmol/L,在相对湿度43%的环境中,24 h保湿率为90.33%±1.34%,酪氨酸酶抑制率为42.01%±2.73%

    Abstract:

    The polysaccharide of Dendrobium officinale (DOP) was extracted from fresh Dendrobium officinale by ultrasonic assisted method and used as active ingredient to prepare Dendrobium officinale whitening cream. Taking the polysaccharide of Dendrobium officinale (DOP) yield as evaluation index, the extraction technology of DOP was optimized by single factor and orthogonal test. The antioxidant activity of DOP was investigated by hydroxyl radical,1, 1-diphenylpicrylphenylhydrazine (DPPH) radical, 2,2" -diazo-di3-ethylbenzothiazolin-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) cationic radical scavenging test and iron ion reduction (FRAP) method. The moisturizing ability of DOP was detected by in vitro physical analysis. The effects of DOP on the properties of Dendrobium officinale whitening cream were investigated based on the test of antioxidant and moisturizing ability and tyrosinase activity inhibition. The results showed that the optimal extraction conditions of DOP were as follows: ultrasonic time 60 min, solid-liquid ratio (g∶mL) 1:30, ultrasonic times 3, ultrasonic temperature 80 ℃, and the yield of DOP was 34.73%±0.16%. Compared with 1.92 g/L L-ascorbic acid solution, the hydroxyl radical scavenging rate of 1.92 g/L DOP solution was 57.33%±0.03%, which was lower than 98.77%±0.05% of L-ascorbic acid solution. The cationic radical scavenging rate of ABTS was 22.16%±1.24%, much lower than that of L-ascorbic acid (98.01%±0.28%). The scavenging rate of DPPH free radical was 85.45%±0.06%, which was close to 96.24%±0.04% of L-ascorbic acid. FRAP value was 2631.31 μmol/L±67.34 μmol/L, which was close to 2782.83 μmol/L±23.78 μmol/L of L-ascorbic acid. Under the conditions of 85% and 43% relative humidity for 24 h, the DOP moisture retention rates were 96.1%±0.17% and 91.6%±0.31%, respectively. The hydroxyl free radical scavenging rate and DPPH free radical scavenging rate of DPPH cream with DOP 1.5% and niacinamide 2.6% were 25.40%±0.13%, 85.70%±0.30%, FRAP 3735.14 μmol/L±148.38 μmol/L, and the 24 h moisture rate was 90.33%±1.34% under 43% relative humidity. The inhibition rate of tyrosinase was 42.01%±2.73%.

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张舒婷,李丽,丁依琳,姜雯琪,王作新,赵洪新.铁皮石斛多糖的提取及在美白保湿护肤品中的应用[J].精细化工,2025,42(10):

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  • 收稿日期:2024-08-07
  • 最后修改日期:2024-11-14
  • 录用日期:2024-09-10
  • 在线发布日期: 2025-09-26
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